Monday, July 21, 2014

7/19/14 - Rebuffat

We got a late start for an 8 pitch climb called the Rebuffat and weather was supposed to get bad in the afternoon. When we got to the top of the tram it was very windy and the clouds looked ominous, but we decided to go for it anyway. Our reasoning was we could just rappel off the face if it got too stormy. It started snowing off and on about half way through the route, and each time I would start praying that it would hold out until we were able to finish. Everything was going great until the last two pitches. We were a little confused about where the route was supposed to go, but after double checking the topo I was very confident we were on the right track. Bucky had his reservations however and when he got to the crux of the pitch he yells down at me, "there's no f-ing way this is right." Since I had no idea what he was looking at there was little more for me to say than that I felt very confident we were going the right way. After a couple of aid moves on some slung bolts and a couple of, "Alright, I'm going for it, what's the worst that can happen? I just fall right?" comments, Bucky made the move and topped out the route. The whole last pitch was up some off width (really wide) cracks that Bucky didn't have the gear to protect. So with the exception of two bolts on an arete with no holds, Bucky was very exposed to a big fall. My impression of the route was much different being on top rope the whole time I was never exposed to a big fall and I thought it was fun and pretty easy. After topping out we had a very short rappel down to a terrace and a short walk back to the tram. I was standing on the terrace and Bucky was rappelling down when the storm just unleashed itself on us. Five minutes sooner and I don't think we would have finished the climb. Unfortunately I forgot to get any pictures, but I think we will go for this climb again.

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