7/28/14 - Contamine-Mazeaud

The route

Bucky and I wanted to improve our simultaneous climbing technique and get more comfortable climbing on a steep snowfield.  With these goals in mind we headed to the Triangle du Tacul once again to try a new route that had some climbing that we haven't been as exposed to.  The weather forecast was for a nice morning turning into rain and snow in the afternoon, so we didn't want too committing of a route either.  Contamine-Mazeaud is 350 vertical meters of grade AD+, 65°, mixed (III).  This was a very good climb for us, and not so steep that we didn't feel comfortable simul-climbing the first few pitches.  Once it got a little steeper we started to pitch everything out until, close to the top, we got to try some more simul-climbing.
The last pitch that we were able to finish before the weather started to get a little too threatening was full-on mixed climbing with some vertical sections and some sketchy sections.  Luckily Bucky was able to protect everything well so we weren't ever in any danger.  After this section came a short traverse and then we rappelled down the Chere route, which we had climbed last week.  At the very last belay station we were pulling our rope through and it managed to get itself caught in a nasty crack about 15 meters above us.  Bucky put me on belay and I ran up there to dislodge it.  No problems on the way up, but about half way back down I mistakenly thought that the slope had mellowed out enough that I could walk down the slope face out, instead of toeing in.  After a few steps my foot gave way and I started to slide down the glacier!  I was picking up a fair amount of speed so I just yelled as I flew past Bucky, "Catch me! Catch me!"  My right foot got caught in a bundle of rope on the way down so as soon as Bucky caught me I got spun around 180° and was sliding head first when the belay went taut!  I felt fortunate that I didn't even rip my pants with my crampons, much less my skin.  After that it was a very uneventful walk back to the Midi in a good old fashioned actual snow storm, instead of in some sort of freezing ice pellet storm!  Bucky also bet me that we could make it across the Cosmiques Arete in less than 3 hrs and 15 minutes.  If we do, I owe if a burger and beer.  If we don't, he pays for a night at the Cosmiques hut.  I have a lot more to gain out of this bet than Bucky does.