8/10/14 - Clocher Clochetons

The Route across the Clochetons

Ever since we got to France I have been intrigued by a climb that Bucky showed me in his 100 best climbs of Chamonix book.  It is called Clochers Clochetons (6a, 500m).  It's a relatively easy climb, but it has a unique feature that neither of us had ever done during a climb.  That feature is setting up and crossing a tyrolean traverse!  I had a lot of questions about just how the traverse would work, how we would lasso the iron peg, and how we would ultimately remove the traverse after we had both crossed.  We managed to figure out how we thought it should be done, but I was still curious about the lasso part.  Rather than doing just the traverse, however, we decided to do the Clocher climb up to the Clocheton traverse.  Neither was rated very difficult, but they were both estimated as three hour climbs, which, of course, could mean more like ten.  We got an early start and managed to be the first party on the route today!  This was a first time for us (except for when we have been the only party on the route) and ended up being a very good thing.  The party that started directly behind us was left behind very quickly.  We made it to the base of the Clocheton very quickly and easily with the exception of a 6a+ variant section that I led that managed to provide a challenge.

At the start of the traverse we ran into a party from Germany who had hiked all the way up.  Luckily we were able to get in front of them on the pitch and quickly outdistance them as well.  After the first pitch of the traverse came a 20m rappel, then a second pitch, then just what we had been waiting for.  The whole reason for doing the climb.  The tyrolean traverse!  The span was only about 10-12 ft long, and about 30 ft above the ground.  We put our plan in place and Bucky hucked a bunch of the rope clear across the gap.  After whipping it around a little bit he managed to get the rope over both pegs!  We tied figure 8's on a bite in each end and clipped them together as tight as we could manage.  Bucky put me on belay and I slowly eased myself over the edge.  The sag in the rope as I put my full weight on it was truly remarkable!  The traverse was totally unique.  As I pulled myself up onto the ledge on the other side I was super jazzed.  I have done tyroleans before, but this was just such a cool experience doing it high in the mountains on our own set-up.  After Bucky made it across it was a matter of a couple more pitches, a couple more rappels, some down climbing and we were on a trail headed back to the tram station.  We have really dramatically improved our time vs. the guide books estimated times these last few trips.  Today we were over an hour faster than the estimate in the guide book!  These last few experiences have provided me with much more confidence in trying to go for some of the bigger day trips in the guide books.  As a matter of fact, if the weather cooperates, we are going to attempt one of our biggest goals of the summer later this week.  The Frendo Spur!  More details to come later on that.  I once again brought along the GoPro, check out the video here:  Clocher Clochetons - Youtube