8/4/14 - Poeme a Lou

Working up the 2nd pitch (6a+)

Bucky was feeling a little aggressive yesterday.  He says to me, "you know, neither of us have really fallen on any route we've done yet, I think we need to challenge ourselves more."  So last night he picks out a route up the South face of the Brevant called Poeme a Lou (TD sup., 200 m, 6a+).  The route is only five pitches, but the first three are 6a+, 6a+, 6b, then a section of 6c+ that can be aided with a fixed rope.  I know we have climbed some single pitches of 6b, but I was nervous heading into it with so much sustained difficult climbing.  It didn't help matters that the forecast for today called for thunderstorms in the afternoon and it by the look of the clouds in the morning I thought the storm rolled in early.  Bucky remained undaunted and off we went.  I was not comfortable leading the 6a+, so Bucky led the first four pitches while I topped out the last pitch of 5c.  The first pitch was very long and very sustained.  After the pump fest of dry tooling yesterday both Bucky and I needed to take breaks mid-pitch to give our forearms a rest.  The second pitch was both easier and shorter, which was a nice reprieve.  The third pitch was the one I was most nervous about.  I have only climbed two pitches of 6b, both on top rope, and neither was easy.  Either I am getting stronger, or it was a little easier 6b, but I made it up without having to press off any bolts or grab on to and quickdraws!  It was still very difficult, and both of us needed to take breaks as we climbed.  The 6c+ traverse was a real doozy.  Unfortunately we don't have any pictures, but there was essentially an old, tattered, fixed rope that spanned about 10 feet across a 500' drop.  Needless to say, both Bucky and I were a little nervous as we crossed about the rope holding our weight!  It was really a spectacular move; like nothing we have done before.  I just wish we had some pictures.  The last two pitches were 6a and 5c and I have to say it felt so nice to feel comfortable on the rock.  I felt like I was near falling almost the whole time we were on the first three pitches.  Getting on that slightly easier terrain was like crawling under a warm blanket for me!  Thank God the weather held out the whole time; all we felt were a few sprinkles of rain.  We are now out on the deck, waiting for the half priced cheeseburger sale to start at the Monkey Bar.  I love half priced cheeseburger Mondays!

Resting my forearms on the pitch of 6b